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24heuer



Member Since: 21 Jul 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 167

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Steering shaft assembly QMN500270
Hi all,
Anyone changed one of these at all?
I can see how to get to the top part easily enough but access to the bottom joint looks a real pain.
Any advice or tips much appreciated.
Also any recommendations on where to buy that isn't going to break the bank?

Click image to enlarge

Prices vary from £15 for a rough looking item on eBay to around £150 for OEM and then way over £200 for genuine.
Many thanks, Cheers,
Andy...
Edinburgh, Scotland
http://24heuer.com
Post #747868 29th Dec 2018 9:17am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Yes, awkward at the bottom!

I used 2nd hard genuine from a low mileage scrapper. It is shocking how much price difference there is between a Td5 and TDCi version, given that the only difference is the heat shield on the Puma version.
Post #747900 29th Dec 2018 12:24pm
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Bluericky



Member Since: 26 Jun 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 647

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green
Out of interest , what made you decide to replace it ?
I’ve been thinking that mine is on its way out as UJ’s appear fairly seized up and I’m getting a minuscule amount of movement when I grab and shake .
Post #747956 29th Dec 2018 6:11pm
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24heuer



Member Since: 21 Jul 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 167

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Hi,
Yeah, access is a nightmare without removing bits Big Cry
I’m getting a bit of wobble through the wheel at 50mph.
Nowhere near as bad as the death wobble I had before - pretty much everything else has been replaced or fixed to resolve that but I’m still hyper sensitive about the feel.
If I move the shaft at the top end below the joint there is notiicable vertical play that feels like the top joint.
I don’t get this at the bottom end.
This movement translates to a similar feel at the wheel.
The shaft and the joints look like they’ve seen better days tbh and there’s a hand painted mark on the shield so I suspect it’s a replaced used part from before I got the vehicle.
(Edit - actually, just thinking about that last comment - it's ex-military so maybe the military mark replaced parts(?)) Cheers,
Andy...
Edinburgh, Scotland
http://24heuer.com


Last edited by 24heuer on 30th Dec 2018 9:02am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #747969 29th Dec 2018 8:01pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
In my case, a small amount of play in the top uj.
Post #747995 29th Dec 2018 10:26pm
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24heuer



Member Since: 21 Jul 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 167

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Isn’t that just typical Blackwolf? They sell a replacement bottom joint cheap but with the top joint you need to fork out for the entire assembly. Big Cry Cheers,
Andy...
Edinburgh, Scotland
http://24heuer.com
Post #747996 29th Dec 2018 10:35pm
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BogMonster



Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 400

Falkland Islands 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
They do fail as a 'wearing part'. A lot of Defenders here are used a lot of the time on rough unsurfaced gravel roads, and every Defender I've owned in recent years has needed one within 20-30k miles, corrugations and potholes on the roads are hell on steering joints all through the system. Yet to find out with the Puma.

Some of the mechanics at the garage I used to run reckoned that dripping a small amount of light oil onto the joint at servicing would prolong its life, I guess it wicked into the bearings if they were dry. One of a number of things that a grease nipple would help with... ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi
Post #747998 30th Dec 2018 12:09am
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williamthedog



Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: south wales
Posts: 3441

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
Bogmonster wrote ;
Some of the mechanics at the garage I used to run reckoned that dripping a small amount of light oil onto the joint at servicing would prolong its life,

Thats exactly what I have done with mine since it was new. No problems with it yet. Thumbs Up
Post #748001 30th Dec 2018 8:07am
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1599

United Kingdom 
tdi ones you can buy as 2 separate parts. seized and worn out ones are very very common.

beware the cheap ones as they often have more play than the one you take off.

td5 is a complete shaft....

all make a good return on the work involved to replace.

the ones we have just done were seized in 2 planes of movement only.
Post #748023 30th Dec 2018 10:55am
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Stu_XS



Member Since: 22 Jul 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
I've removed/replaced mine a couple of times in the pursuit of trying to find a slight grating noise and when I have changed the steering box.

Having done it a few times I think it's not at all difficult, certainly not as hard as it looks.

Loosen the upper and lower spline clamp bolts plus the clamp on the lower UJ/shaft joint and then gently drift it back from the steering box splines once it's clear of the steering box knock it back the other way. Stu...

2013 Aintree Green 90 XS SW 2.2 Puma
Post #748144 30th Dec 2018 9:40pm
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24heuer



Member Since: 21 Jul 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 167

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Hi,
That’s all good info - thanks.
Definitely something I want to tackle.
Stu - Can I ask how did you get to the bottom bolts?
Did you need to remove the air cleaner duct or anything else at all? Cheers,
Andy...
Edinburgh, Scotland
http://24heuer.com
Post #748149 30th Dec 2018 10:01pm
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Stu_XS



Member Since: 22 Jul 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
No need to remove anything Andy.

Bottom end is accessed from under the car. Top end is easily reached from above. Rotate the shaft as needed to get access. 8mm ring spanner if I remember well.

Make sure you take the bolts right out and don't just losen them, you'll be there a while otherwise as the splined shafts are rebated where the bolt sits. Laughing

From under the car you can access the bottom of the shaft with a longish bar and drift it up off the steering box.

You'll need to re-center the steering wheel after. Stu...

2013 Aintree Green 90 XS SW 2.2 Puma
Post #748150 30th Dec 2018 10:07pm
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24heuer



Member Since: 21 Jul 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 167

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Ha! Underneath - of course!
I never thought of that Rolling with laughter
Fantastic - I’ll order it up and report back Smile
Can’t wait to try it now.
Thanks all! Cheers,
Andy...
Edinburgh, Scotland
http://24heuer.com
Post #748151 30th Dec 2018 10:12pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20368

United Kingdom 
I'm assuming the UJ's on these are of a non serviceable / non replaceable part? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #748168 30th Dec 2018 11:54pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Non-serviceable and sealed for life. They can only be replaced with the shaft as an assembly, and the TDCi version, which has a heatshield that the Td5 doesn't but is otherwise the same, is disturbingly expensive.
Post #748400 31st Dec 2018 11:12pm
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