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nothing ever breaks in the summer time! 
| Big Harold Member Since: 09 Jul 2018 Location: nsw Posts: 71   
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I had this same problem.
I am replacing master, slave, spigot bearing and clutch. Be aware there is an updated slave cylinder that requires new adapter and external valve. https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/m...aring.html https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/adaptor-lr.html https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/control-valve.html The bleed nipple is a nipple with a tap valve on the side of the box. Mark |
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12th Dec 2018 12:40am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 737  
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What a timely thread! I posted my clutch problems in my thread a day or two back but no one seemed to bother reading it. I was about to create a new thread with my concerns but it seems you encountered something similar.
I was drove to meet a few friends last Friday evening and as I was driving, I noticed a sound coming from the transmission that changed tone whenever I would step on the clutch. When I was leaving the parking structure to head home, I noticed the clutch was quick to engage, after the next gear change, I noticed the pedal was practically on the floor!  If you stepped on it, there was still enough movement to know you stepped on it but as soon as you released it, you feel that the clutch has already engaged! After a few kilometers, gear changes starting to get difficult and eventually, you couldn't get the truck into first and as I got closer to home, I was already only able to get him into third. He was parked on the incline as I opened the gate then as I tried to get him into the garage, he stalled.  Trying to restart the engine, the glow plugs would cycle but when you try to turn the key to ignition, no starter crank, no clicks, nothing!
I got him parked across the street as his butt was hanging from the driveway and blocking the road some as the neighbors across the street park their vehicles outside and it created a tight fitting bottle neck for vehicles wanting to pass. Anyway, I opened the clutch fluid reservoir, it was empty! And as with ozzie1989's observation, the fluid residue was black! I just resurrected my truck from being drowned and I'm considering this as part of things that need to be resolved to get the truck back up and running to full capacity. I already have a quotation for new bits: clutch master cylinder, adapter, secondary clutch and release bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate. A friend of mine suggested filling the system with fluid again so I can at least drive him to the shop for when the parts arrive. My question is though, if I refill the system, will the truck start again? Is there some sort of electronic failsafe that will deactivate and allow me to start the truck as normal or is there something else that is adding to my woes. Not sure if it is unrelated but there was some fluid residue in the are of the brake master cylinder, but upon checking the reservoir was still at optimal level albeit the fluid was also black! I'm now starting to realize that the stain may be from the clutch reservoir. There are also wet fluid stains in the front of the vehicle but just on the driver's side (LHD) near the area of the intercooler area. Related? Appreciate any feedback and advice you guys can give. I was hoping it would be a good Christmas with my truck and I being reunited but it seems we won't be on any further adventures until I get him up and running again.  |
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12th Dec 2018 1:39am |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282  
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Hardcharger. Our problems are almost certainly different. You are losing fluid whereas I am not. The loss of clutch fluid would not cause the vehicle to not start, you have a separate issue and I would start by checking all main earths, fuses and then relays under the driver's seat.
You can try topping up the fluid and then seeing if the clutch works, however if the fluid has dropped to such a low level that there is air in the pipework between the master and the slave cylinder you will need to bleed the system before you will notice any difference. As for why it is leaking, have a look in the footwell to see if you have any leaks coming from the master cylinder. Then inspect all the pipework from the master cylinder to the side of the bell housing. lastly check the bellhousing drain hole for signs of any fluid leakage from the slave cylinder itself. You must have fluid leaking from somewhere for it to disappear like that. I would certainly look at checking for fluid leaks and changing the master cylinder first before paying to have the clutch and everything associated with it changed. I almost wish I had a fluid leak problem as that would make it a lot easier to identify the problem!!!  Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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12th Dec 2018 8:36am |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282
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Hi Mark thanks for the info. luckily I'm already clued up on the clutch change scenario and will likely go for a clutch fix kit, including the new and updated release bearing / slave cylinder.
If I do go down that road I'm still a little unsure as to whether I want the uprated Ashcroft transmissions output shaft, or whether to stick with the standard output shaft and grease it properly. I do have rattling springs so the clutch needs changing anyway but I'm trying to bide myself some time so I can do it in the summer when it's a bit warmer outside. On the other hand if changing the master cylinder isn't going to give me much time anyway I may as well just go for it and may get some prices today to have it changed. I know if I start to tear it apart on the driveway now it will start to snow or something Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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12th Dec 2018 8:41am |
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| Zed Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: In the woods Posts: 3287  
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Ozzie, you may want to have a look at Lof clutches.
https://lofclutches.com/shop/?v=79cba1185463 They also do an uprated output shaft . https://www.instagram.com/lof_clutches/ Last edited by Zed on 12th Dec 2018 9:47am. Edited 1 time in total |
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12th Dec 2018 9:39am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 737
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I've been wondering about the output shaft kit from LOF Clutches, is it an upgrade like the Ashcroft Kit or is this the "updated" kit from Land Rover? If it's an upgraded kit, how different will it be? As far as I can tell, it won't be "self lubricating" like the Ashcroft one though it seems to come with the "apply once" grease / lube same as the updated Land Rover kit.
One thing for sure, it's a bit cheaper compared to Ashcroft the last time I checked. |
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12th Dec 2018 9:46am |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282
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Mmmmm might buy one to put on the shelf
 they do look the bees knees! Cheaper than Clutch Fix too! Thanks for that info Zed
Just got off the phone to my local Land Rover dealer, to change the clutch for the latest one, new type slave/bearing unit, new modified adaptor shaft, all seals, oil, labour etc. £1200. Not as bad as I was expecting to be honest! My biggest issue is I don't trust any of my local independent garages any more and don't have the time/space to do it right now although I'd much rather do it myself  Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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12th Dec 2018 9:48am |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282
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The LOF kit is the genuine land rover upgraded one. The guy at the dealer said they are a lot better and to their knowledge haven't had any fail like the old ones did.
My only problem with Ashcroft is you're introducing yet another place for oil to leak, and it isn't exactly easy to get at!!! In theory if they use the right grease in the land rover kit, it should last many many miles. Just think of wheel bearings Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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12th Dec 2018 9:51am |
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| Zed Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: In the woods Posts: 3287
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As far as I am aware both kits take the original Land Rover part and modify it.
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12th Dec 2018 9:52am |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282
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Definitely genuine LR:
"The newly designed kit from Land Rover has been modified and also includes special spline grease which prevents the shaft from wearing out again!" Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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12th Dec 2018 9:53am |
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