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lonewolf

Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: North East England
Posts: 210

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zambezi Silver

Hole appeared in rear quarter panel!

After washing the 90 (2010) I noticed what looked like a paint bubble on the passenger side rear quarter panel at the bottom above the cill just ahead of the rear wheel. There is a bolt located underneath which holds the panel support bracket.
Of course I poked at the bubble and now it’s a small hole! As this panel is aluminium has anyone had a similar experience and how did you go about remedying it?
I also had a feel on the reverse side of the panel to find a lot of hard packed mud. This was the same regarding the quarter panel on the drivers side. Although the vehicle has been waxoyled twice the mud which had collected has obviously led to a corrosion trap.
I don’t suppose the corrosion warranty covers a 7.5 year old vehicle?

8th Jun 2018 4:04pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

If you look in my build three I did a few pics when I replaced mine. Corrosion warranty is 6 year I’m afraid. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

8th Jun 2018 4:22pm

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Birmabright Ally is more corrosion resistant than steel, but it does dissolve once salt gets to it.

8th Jun 2018 9:36pm

lonewolf

Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: North East England
Posts: 210

Hmmm......thinking about it, I guess that where the body panel stay bolts to the panel creates a nice little niche for muck to settle into, and thus get impregnated with road salt. I’m quite fastidious about cleaning the underside but this area must be getting missed. The hole isn’t too big (big enough though) about 4mm so can probably be filled.

9th Jun 2018 7:36am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

You've also got the potential for bi-metallic corrosion where the steel stay (and bolt) meet the aluminium body, so some sort of isolation would be a good move. I'm a big fan of making rubber gaskets for these sorts of locations.

Unfortunately, Birmabright hasn't been used for Land Rovers since around the late '70's, which is a shame as it was generally a lot more corrosion resistant than what's been used since. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

9th Jun 2018 8:33am

lonewolf

Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: North East England
Posts: 210

Thank you for all of your replies.
I will be isolating the bracket to bodypanel joint in due course (although the horse has bolted now I think).
I will endeavour to carry out a hole repair and was thinking of some sort of 2 pack filler to do the job.
There seems to be a few out there so can anyone recommend a suitable filler from experience?
I notice that some fillers actually have aluminium as part of their make up.
As the hole is only small (still doing my head in though) I was thinking of using a backing mesh for the filler to stick to?
Any ideas appreciated.
Cheers.

9th Jun 2018 12:02pm

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

I'd drill the hole out big enough that you lose all of the corrosion to the edge and then stick a piece of ali to the rear of the panel using something like Sikaflex. The hole can then be filled with appropriate filler and made good. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

9th Jun 2018 12:35pm

lonewolf

Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: North East England
Posts: 210

That’s what I was thinking of, drill out put something on the back (aluminium mesh?) fill hole, sand off and repaint.......stand back and say to myself ‘well Bonny lad you’ve made a right ar*e of that’

9th Jun 2018 2:13pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

As your gong to have to paint it anyway as they only cost about £20/30 and a few rivets why not just put a new one on? Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

9th Jun 2018 5:26pm

lonewolf

Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: North East England
Posts: 210

I didn’t realise that the quarter panels would be as cheap as that? Food for thought for the future though Ray.
I’ve ground the hole out with my Dremel and it’s about 6mm dia. Put a bit of grey primer on the bare metal and for now popped a neat little black Allen head button screw in with washers and a nut on the back. To the untrained eye it looks like it was meant to be there. I showed swmbo who said ‘where’s the hole gone to?’ .......she didn’t realise that the bolt was the temporary fix bless her.

I’m still going to have a look from the back side to see what’s going on, remove the body brackets etc, and the drivers side too because I bet the same thing will happen there.

9th Jun 2018 6:15pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

It’s quite common to get corrosion ther unfortunately, as said above with the dissimilar metals and the amount of salt we get on the roads thrown up there they just rot away

I think gwyn Lewis do some shields to keep it protected from most of the rubbish thrown at it if you want to stop more rot developing. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

9th Jun 2018 6:26pm

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624

Make sure when you put the steel support back on the U-shape on the end of it doesn’t touch the outer skin of the panel, I find when you get the corrosion there and a hole - a lot of the time it’s from that supports edge rubbing on the wing skin and dirt build up. The bracket gets loose with vibration and corrosion around the bolt is my thought.

You can fix it by getting a bit of aluminium, cutting a strip to size, drilling a few extra holes in it for the adhesive “to leak” through and make a stronger bond. I use a spot welder and a fine skim of quality evercoat filler. You could use countersunk pop rivets for a tidy finish - make sure they’re aluminium ones. Make sure you panel wipe the area first before using the adhesive and filler or it will fail eventually

9th Jun 2018 10:44pm

Green Machine

Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

Also replace the wing support stays with YRM's aluminium version, which reduces the dissimilar metal problem at this location:

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-wing-stay...fender-90/ 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green

11th Jun 2018 12:23pm

lonewolf

Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: North East England
Posts: 210

Those aluminium stays are a good idea. I’ll check them out prior to doing the job (both sides) just hope that there’s no hidden surprises when I do them.
Thank you for the info.

12th Jun 2018 8:56am

X4SKP

Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Pictures...

SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html

12th Jun 2018 9:15am

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