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Mwd



Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Scottish Highlands
Posts: 45

United Kingdom 
Has my EGR died?
My Puma 2.2 has done 50,000 miles and I had a turbo hose failure a few weeks ago. The hose was replaced by the dealers and all was fine. However, I'm now getting a strange noise under hard acceleration which I would describe as a whistle or whine. It seems to coincide with turbo boost, so doesn't happen under light acceleration, and does not vary in pitch as the revs rise. In haven't heard the EGR cleaning sound recently, which is ominous. On the plus side, my last tank of fuel was a record for good fuel economy (for me) of 32mpg. Totally different sound from a split hose and the other turbo hoses all look ok, as far as I can tell.
Question is, will I cause any further damage if I continue to drive the car like this? I'm planning some long journeys towing a caravan.... thanks.
Post #636213 7th Jul 2017 12:41pm
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yaho



Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: Bialystok
Posts: 200

Poland 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
My EGR has failed me two weeks ago and I had different symptoms. Horsepower next to none and clouds of black smoke when you try to accelerate. No difference in sound. No difference in fuel consumption (I have made c.a. 800 km with this fault). I could definitely not tow anything - on some stretches of uphill roads the only way was to crawl on 1st gear, 10 kph. Besides of black engine oil, no further damages done. Janusz
www.yahodeville.com
Post #636376 8th Jul 2017 9:25am
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B4Lamb



Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: Abergavenny, Wales
Posts: 233

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green
Normally if the EGR fails you get the orange MIL indicator come on and a fault code suggesting incorrect air flow which misleads you to think the MAF sensor is faulty but it's generally not that. You should hear the chugga chugga cleaning cycle when you turn off the engine. Try removing and replacing the plug to the EGR, it may be just a bad connection.

If you cnn get to the two pins that drive the EGR motor it's possible to apply 12V to operate the EGR in situ. So you can then tell if the EGR motor is working and if the valve is stuck or if the pinion gear has come off the motor shaft. You need a 12V dc source that can deliver at least 10 amps as the EGR motor turns a gearbox and a a strong spring that normally keeps the valve in the shut position. Note the EGR motor is polarity sensitive so you need to connect the 12 VDC the right way around. Doesn't hurt it if you get it wrong it just tries to turn it the wrong direction into a hard stop. The best way to get to the connections is to isolate the two wires in the connector loom, cut them and crimp on male and female bullet connectors so you have a local disconnection point then you can make up two test lead's to your 12V power source. If you are using the 12V lead acid battery then I recommend you fit an in-line fuse in case you short out the test leads. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE WIRES THAT GO BACK TO THE ECU WHEN DOING THIS TEST it's not certain what damage would be done if you stuff 12 V back on those drive signal wires but it could be an expensive mistake!! "You are never to old to learn something new"
Post #638192 18th Jul 2017 8:47am
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AMBxx



Member Since: 24 Jul 2016
Location: York
Posts: 1031

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Apologies for teaching grandmothers to suck eggs, but isn't the whine just the turbo working?


I've not had the EGR fail, but I did have the EGR wastegate stick - you can't mistake the vast quantities of black smoke!
Post #638242 18th Jul 2017 1:44pm
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