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| airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 372   
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Ok,
So I've moved house in the last couple of months and now park the defender next to the new garage. The last place it was parked backed up to it. I put a ctek comfort point in the tub so that I could put the lead out of the garage door to the back to keep it on charge.  Click image to enlarge Sadly with the new place, I can't do this. I now end up trailing a power lead out of the garage round to the tub and leaving the cute in there. Not ideal. The ctek extensions are too short and too expensive to connect together. Has anybody go any ideas, methods they have used etc? I was thinking about one of these, but not sure how I'd connect it to the ctek connector. https://www.nakatanenga.de/elektro/steckdo...cker?c=117 Cheers Just to add, I will be fitting a dual battery system soon, so hopefully do it all together! 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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26th Oct 2016 3:08pm |
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| airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 372
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Funny enough I was just looking at anderson connectors.
The main issue will all of it is the distance. I'm going to have to put a hole in the garage and a waterproof box to store the lead in when not in use. Cheers 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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26th Oct 2016 3:20pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1769  
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Just chop and extend the CTEK wires
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26th Oct 2016 3:22pm |
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| xtr2turbo Member Since: 30 Apr 2016 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 71 
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If you have the powered towing electrics on ebay you can buy a ctek to tow pont electric adaptor
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26th Oct 2016 5:16pm |
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| airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 372
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I've though about extending the wires but want to be waterproof it after. I'll have a look into it.
No, sadly I have the wrong downing electrics only the 7 pin I think with no direct to battery! Such a shame! Cheers 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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26th Oct 2016 5:20pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1097  
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There's glue-lined heat shrink for that, but you probably already know that  |
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26th Oct 2016 6:40pm |
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| airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 372
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Not at all! I will have a look for that.
Thanks 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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26th Oct 2016 7:22pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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You've got a few options for a decent waterproof joint.
Solder then glue lined heat shrink is probably the cheapest. Make sure you put the heatshrink over the cable before you solder them 
Things like this exist, it's a heat shrink solder splice that you just shove both wires in to, heat and away you go: https://www.beal.org.uk/electrical-product...ge-25.html
You probably still want to put some heatshrink over the whole lot for mechanical protection and so it looks neat. Then there are heatshink crimp splices like this: https://www.beal.org.uk/electrical-product...r-red.html
They're slightly easier to do than the solder splices but a bit bulkier. Again, you'll want some heatshrink to put over the whole joint to make it look neat and for mechanical protection. For cable, you probably don't need anything particularly special as it's a pretty low current. Some thin wall would do, but I'd prefer some nice rubber flex. H07RNF would be lovely, or something like: https://www.electriccable.co.uk/12voltcable.php |
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26th Oct 2016 9:04pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1097
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I like the crimp splices. However I understand you shouldn't solder any wires in a car or boat (the Defender being a bit of both
)
Oh, and this you will enjoy https://www.beal.org.uk/heavy-duty-comfort-crimpers.html, while this you will throw in the bin https://www.beal.org.uk/light-duty-crimpers.html |
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27th Oct 2016 10:57am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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Ah yes, non ratcheting crimpers aren't worth their weight in scrap. I really don't see the point.
However I have just bought a set because a tractor driver insisted they were the ones he wanted and ratcheting ones wouldn't do. Not heard about soldering on boats being an issue? The tinning should help with corrosion resistance I'd have thought and the joint should be waterproof anyway? Edit: turns out it's nothing to do with water, it's about mechanics. Solder creates an area of cable that won't flex properly and so it's more likely to break. The crimp reinforces the joint so is less likely to break, and the area away from the joint can flex as normal. Last edited by Cupboard on 27th Oct 2016 11:17am. Edited 1 time in total |
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27th Oct 2016 11:02am |
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| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: Côte d'Azur Posts: 873  
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"... shouldn't solder any wires in a car or boat"
Nor use anything other than stranded cable (i.e. not solid). But this is because vibration could possibly cause fatigue, not relevant in this application? Peter |
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27th Oct 2016 11:08am |
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| airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 372
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Some interesting replies, thank you.
Cupboard, Thanks for the info and links. they are a great help. Macfrank, Yup ratchet crimp in the tool box. A gift from the ETO at work when they needed to spend the remaining budget. I got the old pair. Birdy, Never thought of it like that. Good point. Just need to decide how to put it in the garage and make the access to the outside now. I was initially considering a external plug but that left the ctek in the car still. But now i'm thinking of a external comfort connector in a waterproof box mounted on the side of the garage. That way I can just plug the extension cable into it. Then all I need in the car is the cable. Cheers 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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27th Oct 2016 12:23pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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How about putting the charger inside, low voltage cabling through the wall, splice in to a retractable cable drum thingy (covered by a shelter to keep the rain off), take the mains connection off the other end of the retractable cable and put the Ctek connection on?
This sort of thing but with the mains bits taken off and replaced by Ctek bits: http://cpc.farnell.com/brennenstuhl/124102.../PL1337408
There are two potential issues. First is that you'll be increasing the resistance (and therefore the voltage drop under load) of the low voltage side but it's such a low current anyway that I wouldn't be too worried. As the current drops the voltage loss will drop too so it will still charge properly. The more significant one is that the connections are made by slip rings and if they get a load of corrosion build up on them then then it might pack up. We've had one like that with a lead lamp on it in our workshop for years though and that's still going. Edit: CPC sell the heat shrink crimps too by the way, so you can get everything from them if you want. Edit2: If you go for the more expensive longer one, it's actually IP44 rated so it's happy outside even with mains through it! It's also better cable, 1.5mm2 H07RNF rather than the vinyl. http://cpc.farnell.com/brennenstuhl/124100.../PL1337508 |
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27th Oct 2016 1:13pm |
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| airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 372
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Cupboard,
I think we are thinking along the same lines. Been having a look and if I mounted the charger in the garage and drilled a hole through for the low voltage cable. The put an empty 1 or 2 gang enclosure over the hole (mainly for tidiness) and use the extension cable I already have, it should reach. I do like the retractable idea though, it could be used on other cars too when needed without taking it apart.  2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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27th Oct 2016 4:07pm |
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