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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Key thing is to scrape / scale any loose rust off with a wire brush, heavy rust with a stiff wire cup on a grinder. Keep in mid that rust converters do need some rust to react and bond to, so grinding away to clean metal isn't always the best remedy. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #535907 30th May 2016 4:45pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Welkman wrote:
Thanks guys loads of great advice. I will get on it in the next few weeks and give an update. I have already purchased the Di nitrol kit so I was more concerned with the prep needed before application. I will go for some kind of rust converter then a coat of chassis paint then dinitrol.


What can you do with the inside of the chassis? i assume you washout and spray in some anti rust in a hit and hope way!any product better than others?
Post #535930 30th May 2016 5:33pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Pretty much. A really good spraying inside the frame, which will take some time. There's usually a lot of dried dirt and debris inside the frame, a 5 minute soaking will just start to loosen it, so be persistent. Stick a finger in the larger holes in the rear portion of the frame when you are done and see if you feel bare metal/rust, or is it still more compacted slurry? Don't be shy, just keep pumping the water through until it runs out completely clear. Oh, and be sure to check all the drain holes are open, and not clogged before you start.

It's usually worse in the rear portion of the frame. Cleaner you get it, the better. It needs drying time, and then the Dinitrol application is as good as it gets. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #535937 30th May 2016 5:58pm
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