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RED-DOT



Member Since: 29 Jun 2009
Location: stirling
Posts: 2363

Scotland 
Interior/courtesy lights?
My interior lights have been very hit or miss and have now packed in all together. On door opening and switching to ON manually there is no difference.
I've done the fuses and breaker switches on the doors but was wondering if there is a relay or a known problem? Alarm is fine and 10AS "seems" OK. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
Post #390115 19th Jan 2015 9:19am
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
More than likely a poor earth in the roof, something like a corroded terminal that has eventually given up the ghost.
Post #390183 19th Jan 2015 1:06pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
If the manual "on" switch makes no difference I'd almost be inclined to suspect a dodgy positive supply.

Please excuse me if I'm telling you something you already know, but there is a permanent live to the light and in order to make it come on the other side of it is earthed. In the "on" position that's a "manual" earth (I have a feeling it might just be straight to the roof actually) and when it's in "auto" it's earthed through the 10AS (and can do the fancy dimming stuff).

If the fault happens both in "on" and "auto" then that suggests that the problem is common to both of them, which puts it down to positive supply, bulb holder, bulb and switch.

I hope this is big enough to read, but it's all in dgardel's manual.



Click image to enlarge
Post #390275 19th Jan 2015 6:10pm
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Natlas



Member Since: 20 Mar 2013
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 460

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
I think they earth through the screws that hold the door switches in place, might be worth checking they are doing their job? 2.2 90 XS
88" Series One
Old Norton Smile
Minerva
Post #390407 19th Jan 2015 9:44pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
you're right, but only when the switch is in the "on" position, not when it's in the 10AS controlled door open position.
Post #390516 20th Jan 2015 12:47pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5813

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Cupboard wrote:
If the manual "on" switch makes no difference I'd almost be inclined to suspect a dodgy positive supply.

Please excuse me if I'm telling you something you already know, but there is a permanent live to the light and in order to make it come on the other side of it is earthed. In the "on" position that's a "manual" earth (I have a feeling it might just be straight to the roof actually) and when it's in "auto" it's earthed through the 10AS (and can do the fancy dimming stuff).

If the fault happens both in "on" and "auto" then that suggests that the problem is common to both of them, which puts it down to positive supply, bulb holder, bulb and switch.

I hope this is big enough to read, but it's all in dgardel's manual.



Click image to enlarge


Crikey, can anyone really understand that diagram? A lot of work for a light. Head torch or Maglite taped to Rear-view mirror should suffice. Unless you need good lighting for Dogging? Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #390518 20th Jan 2015 12:50pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17380

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Grenadier wrote:
Crikey, can anyone really understand that diagram?


Yes, it's quite simple really!

You should see some of the other ones for the vehicle.
Post #390524 20th Jan 2015 1:00pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
Rolling with laughter

It's not that hard really. I'm not 100% sure what "Junction box-Battery" is, but basically you've got a +ve feed from the battery going to the 10AS, and then another +ve feed going to the interior light through Fuse 30 in the main under dash fuse box. From there, a purple cable is split 1, 2 or 3 ways for HT/90SW/110SW, through the lamp and to the switch.

There's then a -ve feed either straight from the battery (black, but it's actually straight to the roof) or from the 10AS (purple and white) depending on which was the switch goes.

In order to light up, something needs both a +ve and -ve supply to it, the +ve is always on assuming the fuse hasn't blown and connecting the -ve is what controls the light.
Post #390527 20th Jan 2015 1:07pm
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