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AMV

Member Since: 30 Nov 2014
Location: Ayr
Posts: 2

2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver

Puma 2.4 cold starting issue.

Morning all, I am looking for some guidance/advice in identifying a frustrating issue with my 2009 Puma 2.4 defender. The problem is a starting issue which has the following symptoms.

1. From cold, engine starts, runs for between 5-30 seconds and then either

a. Cuts out like ignition key has been turned off
or
b. Runs very rough for up to a minute and then cuts out

2. Trying to re-start immediately results in engine cranking as normal, but will not start

3. Turning ignition off and waiting for circa 20 secs (seems until a relay under seat clicks) then trying a re-start results in car starting as normal.

4. Points 1-3 repeat for 5-6 times then car starts and stops as normal all day

I have it booked into local Landrover dealer at start of January but wondered if there was some obvious sensor or something I could do whilst I was off work over the holiday period. My friend plugged in his DTC tool, but no fault codes were found (was a pretty basic one to be fair)

thanks in advance for your help

29th Dec 2014 11:19am

dgardel

Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

outside temperature?

Diesel Parafin? Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License

29th Dec 2014 12:03pm

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Check the relay under the drivers seat for corrosion and that all the pins are making contact. Check the loom around the relay holder for any signs of damage, water ingress or corrosion. Next thing would be a Ohms test on a glow plug with a DMM to check for an open circuit on any of the glow plugs and also check the glow plug rail for amps when the ignition is switched on and the glow plug cycle starts.

Click image to enlarge

From the symptoms you describe and that you can hear a relay click then it starts as normal then this is the first place I would look. It sounds as though the glow plugs are not receiving any power during the pre heat stage which causes the engine to start and then die

From another post to save me rewriting it:

Lorryman100 wrote:

During the preheat stage, the ECM receives the engine temperature from the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor and this is what determines the preheat time. The lower the temperature, the longer the preheat time. There is a maximum preheat time of about 8 seconds at -20°C or lower.
Once the engine has started, the glow plugs enter an after-glow phase. The after-glow phase only operates at engine speeds below 2500 rpm, above that the after-glow phase is stopped to increase the longevity of the glow plugs. There is a maximum after-glow time of about 30 seconds at -20°C or lower. If the CHT is above 50 degrees C there is no after glow.

If the connection is loose then yes that can be a cause of the glow plugs not working. A easy test is to use a DMM and do a voltage / amps check on the rail. The glow plugs draw a decent amperage so a loose connection will stop the maximum current from being delivered to the plug rail.

HTH :thumbsup:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

29th Dec 2014 12:15pm

sharkey964

Member Since: 05 Oct 2014
Location: On a muddy track
Posts: 574

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

I had a similar fault on mine.
It turnerd out to be the immobiliser.
Might be worth a look.
Good luck.

29th Dec 2014 12:23pm

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

I agree. The immobiliser is the next part of the fault finding process if the glow plug system checks out OK.

29th Dec 2014 12:27pm

AMV

Member Since: 30 Nov 2014
Location: Ayr
Posts: 2

thanks all for the immediate responses - really appreciated. I will follow up on the glow plugs and relay and check continuity/current in the first instance. The car is garaged overnight so temp not too extreme. Had a look under the drivers seat. The area looks brand new with no signs of ingress or corrosion, but will give relay and cct. a thorough check. Again, thanks for the steer. rgds.

29th Dec 2014 12:55pm

Cupboard

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

Lorryman100 wrote:

During the preheat stage, the ECM receives the engine temperature from the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor and this is what determines the preheat time. The lower the temperature, the longer the preheat time. There is a maximum preheat time of about 8 seconds at -20°C or lower.

My 2011 Puma seems to have the glow plug light lit for a lot longer than that (though it might just seem like an age) and it does it even if it's been up to temperature and only sat for a couple of minutes. Is that right?
My old Honda wouldn't bother with glow plugs in the summer or if the engine was still warm and our TD5 doesn't seem to if the engine is warm.

29th Dec 2014 4:49pm

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