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Steve B



Member Since: 22 May 2009
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 586

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Rusty Swivel ball
Hi,

So my wheel bearing failed 2 weeks ago and from one thing and another I ended up doing more than just the bearing. When I stripped it the splined on the outer CV shaft were totally corroded away, the swivels were leaking and the disc mud guard brackets were broken. Most of this I guess is general maintainance (boring)

By the time I removed the old swivel seal to replace that I had spent a small fortune (gkn cv's etc... only the 1 cv and wheels bearing had a problem but thought it wise to replace the other side too) I found the ball badly corroded and pitted, funds had now run low and I was not going to fit a 'Britpart swivel' and the genuine swivel is nearly £300 Shocked

So I removed it, broddeled out the worst pitting and treated the metal with some rust converter and filled the pitting in with some epoxy resin. This was sanded back smooth ( just like repairing a dent ) this is where I am lucky and can get xylan spraying done at work http://www.metcoat.com/xylan.htm

Final result looks good, time will tell if it has worked as well as I hope.



Whils I am posting I have 1 problem, as the drive flange was corroded I bought some terrafirma drive flanges but when they arrived it says they are for the rear. They fit but the problem is I cannot pull cv shaft through as its a little tight on the splines, does anyone know what the thread is in the center so I can pull it through. I may have to modify the parts to get the thrust washers and circlip fitted as on the std flange.

Do I need the circlip? what would happen If I just left it out? I hope to do a couple more posts in the future as I have just fitted a P+P roll cage and also mounted my Maggiolina to the roll cage. I just never find the time to post, always fixing/modifying the Defender Laughing

Regards,

Steve





Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #36453 16th Jul 2010 8:39pm
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Steve B



Member Since: 22 May 2009
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 586

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 90 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Just looked at the drive flange again, the flange was tight on the cv spline and a little needle file work and it slid on all the way through allowing me to refit the spacers and circlip.

The flanges are great and should keep out the water where the standard rubber caps failed.

Steve
Post #36478 17th Jul 2010 1:31pm
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101sean



Member Since: 24 Oct 2009
Location: Middle of nowhere, Co Tipperary
Posts: 2

Ireland 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Cairns Blue
Nothing wrong with the Teflon coated Britpart swivels, same as the genuine ones. Just replaced all my drive flanges with those HD ones as well along with the rear half shafts, will have to replace the front half shafts as well at some point, should have checked them when I rebuilt the swivels Embarassed .

However, your epoxy fix on the swivels is a good one, it's what most 101 owners do as our swivels are welded to the axles Shocked Sean

2000 110 CSW Blingwagon
73FL74 1975 101GS
Post #36498 17th Jul 2010 9:48pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
101sean wrote:
Nothing wrong with the Teflon coated Britpart swivels, same as the genuine ones. Just replaced all my drive flanges with those HD ones as well along with the rear half shafts, will have to replace the front half shafts as well at some point, should have checked them when I rebuilt the swivels Embarassed .

However, your epoxy fix on the swivels is a good one, it's what most 101 owners do as our swivels are welded to the axles Shocked


Never buy britpart parts - there is a reason they are refered to as sh**part!

If you have critical components either buy genuine or buy from somewhere else. Mike
Post #36509 18th Jul 2010 9:12am
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