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appaloosadude



Member Since: 17 Oct 2012
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 630

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Havana
Dynamat as a waterproofing material.
As per title, If I were to Dynamat the floors of my 110, would it go anywhere WRT sealing water ingress through the various seams and joins especially around the rear seats (110 DCPU) ? Or would the water get in below it and unstick it?
Post #198593 3rd Jan 2013 11:42am
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barbel jim



Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1423

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tonga Green
From my experience and understanding, the dynamat will stay stuck, however it will trap the any water ingress between itself and the panels. Long term this will lead to corrosion. All depends where yours is leaking ? I have tried to stem all my leaks first, which was mainly the door seals which i have replaced and used a bead of sikaflex-291as an extra barrier and adhesive. I have also used the sikaflex on any other areas that I suspect leakded as well as between the tub and top. Silicon could be smeared using a spatula along seams, but I think that might be a bit of overkill, expense and a mess.
With the dynamat, I am trying to follow the pannels, and sticking foil tape (waterproof) over the joins, so as should I need to remove later, my dynamat will remain intact. Any water ingress should then stay on top of the mat and be able to be mopped up. Hope that helps.

Jim
Post #198606 3rd Jan 2013 12:17pm
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appaloosadude



Member Since: 17 Oct 2012
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 630

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Havana
Cheers Jim,

Same as I'd planned - to follow original panels as much as possible, but behind the rear seats are a myriad of seams and joints, so would be simpler to dynamat over the top, rather than seal all the seams. From the sounds of it, I think it would be wise to seal the seams with some sort of proprietary sealant.... Si.. Sik... Sika... Sika-something, I'm sure its been mentioned on here... Laughing Laughing Laughing
Post #199168 5th Jan 2013 12:41pm
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barbel jim



Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1423

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tonga Green
Sikaflex-291 marine sealant that was the one I used.

Warm your sheets well, stick and plenty more heat from a heat gun, rolling the dynamat with a roller. I use a wallpaper joiner. you really can apply some pressure. Thumbs Up
Post #199169 5th Jan 2013 1:03pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Probably a stupid question but if you're never going to see behind the dynamat, why not waterproof the inside panels and seams with rubber-based underseal, e.g. Dunlop S910/S? You might even reduce a broader frequency range due to use of different materials? Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #199176 5th Jan 2013 2:13pm
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

United Kingdom 
flashband works well as both a waterproofer and a sound deadener. Also much much cheaper than dynamat etc. B&Q sell it. Peel off the backing, heat it gently with a heat gun, apply it then heat a bit more and squash it in.
Post #199355 6th Jan 2013 10:53am
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