 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > EGR Valve Cleaning! |
 
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731   
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I realise to mimic the EGR would be extremely complex, probably requiring some serious electronics engineering. However, Matzker did it with the tacho/ECU signal (a lot of German Defenders drive around with that £500 little unlimiter box, me included) so it's certainly something to think about. For various reasons, I have decided against software options and am just trying to optimise the existing setup. I am (please don't laugh) actually quite happy with LR's standard map (including city, countryside and 3000km around Italy) and don't pull really heavy loads either. I had a remap which had some quite impressive effects but there were side effects with my 110 and it wasn't worth it for me (also almost got completely screwed when my programming box was nicked and I couldn't reload the original map). Judging by the improvements just from disabling the EGR, a de-cat, intercooler and a bigger turbo look promising
 Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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15th Oct 2012 7:50am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610  
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I too had historical issues with a remap compatability after the Q068 Land Rover software upgrade that I had told them I didn't want. I couldn't get it reloaded for about three to four months afterwards until the software gremlins had been sorted out. I went the other way and had the map done before the decat etc. so that was my first experience of performance enhancement and I was impressed.
I totally agree about your sentiments about just the decat,egr, turbo and intercooler path and think there are indeed serious gains to be had with just those alone. Maps have also come a long way and I would most definately go down the switchable map (mine isn't) next time. Will dig them blanks out for you in a while..... If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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15th Oct 2012 8:01am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Cheers Mal
It's time to ask a few favours of all those electronics engineers I work with... Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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15th Oct 2012 8:11am |
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| john adam Member Since: 01 Sep 2010 Location: Paris Posts: 77  
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Found this today
http://www.wellspacedout.co.uk they say to have blanking plates for puma, but their description is identically to that of the item Matt bought on eBay and no photos are given. Worth a call? Ciao Carlo 1971 88 Series IIA somewhere in Southern Italy 1989 Ninety stolen in Paris 2004 90 TD5 gone 2010 110 S Puma TDCI running |
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15th Oct 2012 6:23pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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I think their "Puma" is a different breed to ours. The Transit Puma drivers are the audience they are targeting (Transit EGR blanking seems commonplace).
The guy I bought mine off seems to have a good reputation and was sure it would fit my "Puma" (spoke to him on the phone) but he obviously has no experience with Defenders... May be worth a call anyway... Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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15th Oct 2012 6:34pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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AndrewS had a tab on his. I think if they're "holed", a tab is really useful (but visible). If they're slotted, they sit on the studs/bolts and position themselves when you drop them in (also invisible).
To check, you need the measurements for the manifold gasket. K9F can probably tell you. Otherwise, my OEM gasket will arrive from Paddocks in a day or two (I want to check the material grade and any contouring). Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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15th Oct 2012 6:56pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20368
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Then what's the plan?  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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15th Oct 2012 6:58pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Er...
1) Wait until Mal's arrive. 2) Compare them to the original gasket. 3) See whether it's worth savaging Mal's to make the hooked design or better to save those and make my own. 4) Loosen the manifold nuts and see if it's feasible to just drop the hooked blank in next to the original gasket without leaks (same when taking it out and re-tightening ("invisible mod") 5) Maybe replade the studs with bolts (depends) 6) Start with the smaller size hole (12mm perhaps), cane the engine for a while and work up until the MIL stays off. Make the hole slightly bigger for safety. 7) Do the engine tests (power/speed/consumption) all over again. 8.) De-cat and repeat from 6) ... I like to be thorough  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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16th Oct 2012 6:13am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20368
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Very good Matt. Not sure I'd even be patient enough to do that so comprehensively myself! I take it you've got a tool then to clear DTC's if you get the MIL turned on? And if your worried at all about leaks wouldn't a very small bead of exhaust sealer on the gasket / blank suit? Or does that stuff cure and then you can't remove it easily. Just an idea.. What has stopped me for now is that Mal mentioned that things like a Snorkel effect the hole diameter ect that you can use problem free. SO seeing as I would like a Snorkel at some point there would be no point setting anything up on mine right now. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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16th Oct 2012 10:43am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Scangauge II - one of the best investments I ever made
Precisely - I've always found "GunGum" etc. to make more problems than they solve. I used to work on bikes, and clean, dry joints with new gaskets always work best - I'll have to see how used blanking plates seal up but I've always got the new gasket for emergencies
I also have a snorkel at the moment (can't be ars*d to remove it for testing) but I don't imagine it will make a huge difference. When several members and I were experiencing power loss in the hot weather we discussed it a lot and concluded that it shouldn't affect the engine appreciably. Glyn was adamant about this  In any event, if the snorkel did restrict flow to the engine, it would also restrict flow to the EGR valve, so any hole size Mal or I use could not be too small for "no snorkel" and would not cause a MIL
p.s. see de-cat thread  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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16th Oct 2012 2:46pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Matt,
Found them.... Five blanks and a gasket. Will post them tomorrow. No rush for return even if it takes a few months....
 Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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16th Oct 2012 6:18pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Brilliant
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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16th Oct 2012 6:24pm |
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 539 
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My EGR is now making a worrying squeak even while driving, so I fear it may fail shortly.
Removing the EGR valve appears to be more challenging than I would have expected (and I was expecting it to be challenging!)), because the lowest of the two bolts on the back of the EGR, those which attach to the EGR cooler, is blocked by the coolant hose clip that connect on the EGR gas cooler, and no spanner can reach to the head of the bolt 
Is that a common problem? how do you work around that? Is it safe to (try to) rotate the hose clip somehow to gain access to the bolt (without causing a leak in the coolant system nor breaking the clip...)? |
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21st Oct 2012 7:20am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20368
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I used a a socket set with an extension bar but even then it is awkward. I never moved anything out the way on mine just pushed the pipes aside slightly within reason. With the 'squeak' you mention you are probably right but I wouldn't change it unless your MIL light comes on or it stops the cleaning cycle for example. Alternatively instead of using a socket set I guess a rachet spanner would work but as I say it is tight there. The bolts on my 2007 Puma were 8 and 10mm hex I think from memory although the newer models maybe different. The lower ones as you mention are the most difficult to get at. I found removing the old one was far easier than installing the new one. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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21st Oct 2012 10:14am |
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