 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Safari Snorkel HELP please |
 
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610   
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Mermoto,
Reminder from another thread...the instructions state to step out to 16mm....no need to go so big if you're careful... 
If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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11th Jul 2012 6:56am |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459 
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I did mine to twelve last night and it was ok
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11th Jul 2012 9:48am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Result, you now have 16mm of extra metal on your truck than you would have had. Doubt if it will affect your mpg that much!
 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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11th Jul 2012 12:22pm |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459
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That’s awful anyway. I had to take it off again as I am still trying to get that stuff the dealers put on as now I have this model (580) it does not cover the foot print of the old RAI. As the spat is off I have left it at home and used the old 90 to get to work which means Wifey has to walk home from work today. I am now going to get the damaged part of the wing sprayed where it shows as it at the moment looks non to pretty. When you did yours did you seal the drain point in the air box?
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11th Jul 2012 12:27pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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No I didn't as I have no intention at this time of wading or fitting a wading kit. Decided to leave the drain point in the airbox open....can always be sealed later if required. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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11th Jul 2012 4:55pm |
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| mermoto Member Since: 21 Sep 2011 Location: Essex Posts: 326 |
OK I have had a good look at what I need to do to fit this snorkel and access is as we know very restricted for fitting the nuts to the three studs on the snorkel. The instructions say to remove the airbox lid, filter, and hose fittings etc, then drill the six pop rivets to remove the base unit.
Question: is it definitely essential to remove the complete airbox to gain access? Next question, I don't think the back of the air intake can not be accessed without also removing the plastic wheel arch extensions. These appear to held in place by multiple plastic panel studs and a couple of screws. Question: Anyone know what size these panel studs are as I expect some will snap when I remove them so I want to buy a box of them before I start. Also once the wheel extension is off will I have unhindered access to the back of the air intake panel to easily do up the nuts on the snorkel studs. I know this is all quite detailed but I want to make this snorkel mounting job as easy as possible and a prcise fitting. Pictures below showing the area I need to access and the plastic studs I described.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Picture showing the six air box rivets that may need drilling out. Click image to enlarge Cheers Mermoto |
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12th Jul 2012 11:07am |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459
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The spat rivits are easy. Just push the centre pin through with a small screw driver and then pop the rivit out. Then once removed pick up all the centre pins and reuse when ready. I bought 10 new ones jsut in case from ebay.
I have yet to drill out the air box yet but will do in the next few days. |
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12th Jul 2012 11:32am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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So is there not the same problem on the front spats as the rear? I tried to get the rear ones off and the pins for the rivets at the top won't push up fully as there isn't room - had to cut some off
Would be good to know as I'm removing the spats to paint them soon and need to buy new rivets... Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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12th Jul 2012 11:54am |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459
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I can only say about the fronts as I took mine off the day before yesterday as part of the snorkel change. Took less than five minutes
Unlike removing the the LR RAI which took hours. |
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12th Jul 2012 11:57am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Seems 10 will do then - cheers
 Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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12th Jul 2012 12:03pm |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459
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Finally finsh fitting.
Click image to enlarge |
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15th Jul 2012 5:07pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Smart
Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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15th Jul 2012 6:35pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20367
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Bit of a thread revival this, but I've got one now - well in its box.
Glad I got the right model too luckily. Definitely going for K9F's SS screen bracket, superb idea although I'll paint mine on the visible side only.. The note I want to add to this thread which may be of interest is the snorkel top retainer. (Like a giant hose clip). I notice on mine it's black. Were others too as standard? I notice some others are polished or was that swapping out instead? Im just wondering if they are black now instead of polished? Or perhaps some just fitted their own polished / raw one's. |
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26th Dec 2015 11:11pm |
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| 4wheeler Member Since: 13 Apr 2010 Location: Melbourne Posts: 87  
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I fitted one (580HF) to my 2013 Defender in the last 6 months. The worm drive clip is black as are most of the clips on Safari Snorkels these days. If needed, go to an industrial supplier and purchase a stainless steel clamp.
Don't forget to seal all ducting points, and drain valves in the piping and air box unless you need the drains, otherwise the assembly in not sealed. You can basically make the intake waterproof to air box level if needed by sealing properly. If lucky and the air box lid seals well on the air filter, then you might get away with higher water levels once sealed but for me that would be a worst case scenario. Make sure that you trial fit the snorkel body and tighten everything up then mark the points on the windscreen pillar prior to drilling. That way you will have correct positioning. The gaskets should be in place for the trial fit but don't put the sealant on until the final fitting as the gaskets will alter the position on the pillar. When doing this trial fit, also check the alignment of the snorkel on the upper guard for snugness of fit. When I fitted mine, I had trouble as I could either get it fitting nicely on the guard, but then not on the pillar or fitting neatly on the pillar and bulkhead but not on the guard. On mine I have refitted it about 10 times and it is still a compromise between the two. I had to use a non-setting mastic to make it look neat. Also, with holes in the guard, keep them as small as required to get a good fit. I also pre-bent the large stainless steel washer which fits on the inner guard top stud of the snorkel body so that if followed the inner contour of the guard. Paint the drill holes so the stainless studs and screws don't react with the aluminium. Hope this helps. |
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27th Dec 2015 9:02am |
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