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| leonvh Member Since: 31 Dec 2013 Location: Plombires Posts: 69   
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I have them on a switch and just never use high beam anymore...
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8th Feb 2024 6:18pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20412 
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That’s a nice switching set up leonvh.
Nick.bw You don’t need to have switches unless you want to, other than main beam. You can have just an auxiliary switch, or both for a choice. Both means to say you have a lot more wiring to do, but you have switching options. Though you do have to have a switch for rear reverse light. IIRC. I would consider sticking to either a switch, or the main beam only rather than both as you may find you might have it on when it’s off or off when it’s on as you could have both switched on. Bearing in mind you will have the dash main beam light on if on main beam only including flash. The choice is yours really, but less components does mean less items to wire, or points of failure and more simplicity. And then better reliability. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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8th Feb 2024 7:21pm |
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| Evil Elsie Member Since: 25 Feb 2023 Location: Cumbria Posts: 201 
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Sorry for jumping on this thread but I have a similar query....
I'm about to install one of these cheapese LED lightbars to my A Bar. My plan is to wire it up to my High Beams (via a relay of course) but wondered what would happen at MoT time..?? Should I add a simple 'on/off' switch so that I can select 'on' = headlights and light Bar or 'off' = headlights only...?? Cheers, Dave. 2002 Land Rover 110 Td5 Utility 1990 Suzuki GSXR 1100L 1980 Yamaha RD 350LC 1976 Yamaha RD 400C |
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16th Feb 2024 2:06pm |
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| LR Nuts Member Since: 10 Aug 2022 Location: UK Posts: 1130 
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Evil, add a switch AND a fuse (for safety) !!!
Then for MOT remove the fuse ...... simples ..... |
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16th Feb 2024 4:03pm |
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| Evil Elsie Member Since: 25 Feb 2023 Location: Cumbria Posts: 201
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Good shout Mr Nuts - I shall do just that....
Cheers 👍👍 2002 Land Rover 110 Td5 Utility 1990 Suzuki GSXR 1100L 1980 Yamaha RD 350LC 1976 Yamaha RD 400C |
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16th Feb 2024 4:09pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17414 
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I don't think you would have any problems with it activating with main beam for an MoT. The MoT tests dip beam alignment not main, and although it tests that your obligatory main beams work, I don't think that it checks anything about non-obligatory. It is quite possible that I may be wrong, my detailed knowledge of the MoT test dates back about 40 years and they have this tiresome habit of changing the rules, but I *think* that this is still the case.
than being said, I would always recommend a switch since there may well be times when you don't want the lightbar to come one. (I have a lightbar on the front of the rack with a switch so that it can be off, switch with main, or on without any other lights. The last position is questionable since there should be a warning light on the dash but isn't, but I take the view that that setting is never used where the RTAs apply and the fact that night has just turned into day in front makes a warning light rather pointless. The MoT tester has never found the switch - mind you he's no reason to look for it). |
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16th Feb 2024 4:45pm |
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| Evil Elsie Member Since: 25 Feb 2023 Location: Cumbria Posts: 201
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Blackwolf - thats good to know - thank you..
My reasoning for wanting an override (apart from doubts over the MoT ) where I can turn the lightbar off is that occasionally too much bright, white light might not wanted (snow, fog, really heavy rain etc). I could use dip beams (realistically should be called dim beam 😀) but this way I'll have dip, high and extra high... I stupidly wired the lightbar up to a battery in my garage and switched it on whilst looking at it - bloody hell, it's all I could see for 5 minutes as it was burnt into my retinas... 😀😀 Cheers, Dave. 2002 Land Rover 110 Td5 Utility 1990 Suzuki GSXR 1100L 1980 Yamaha RD 350LC 1976 Yamaha RD 400C |
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16th Feb 2024 6:04pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20412
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You don’t need a switch for a light bar on the front in similar height positioning as headlights.
As BW mentions, those stipulations are correct, but, main beam only light bar is fine for MOT. I have this, and have for years. You can have either combination, or both switching methods at once. However, you do need a switch I believe for a roof mounted front light bar, or rear facing aux lighting. I believe it’s in the RTA somewhere, if not under guidance, then may be legal or both. Where I don’t know, if it’s not in the RTA, then under MOT regs or guidance. I think it’s something do with the max allowable height in conjunction with headlights. And as BW correctly mentions it is the dipped headlight beam that is tested as it needs the alignment and aim to be set correctly. Often, some MoT testers will take a little time if they feel like it, to set main beam angle of extra lighting as well in good will if they feel like it on the day. This is why when you swap headlights I think it is best to get them aligned on MOT spec alignment beam tools right away, as not only do you get best use and performance from them. You save glare and blinding other road users, and when it comes to MOT they will be set correctly or you will get advisory headlight alignment out of range, too high, or too low or other similar wording. As the Defender is very easy to adjust many testers will do that, and put it through anyway, but if they really wanted to it could be a fail or at very least an advisory. Places like Halfords can do it for you in 10 or 15 mins, and will only ask a nominal charge, they did mine for just £15 once and they were excellent after that and in fact you get peak performance from them if you do. If you do get these things adjusted, and then go for the MOT there at a later date, you’ll likely get kudos for getting it sorted out. As it’s usually appreciated the effort to do so. You can roughly get them aligned yourself against a wall or garage door or something, and you can get the alignment specs, but for the cost of getting it done it’s not really always worth it. A choice to make there. As I mentioned, BW is correct there is times you may not want the light bar on, but, I always just use main beam without a switch as it’s more simple. It really is a choice, but, you definitely want a fuse within 20” max of the power source and thinwall automotive cable is ideal. You want the cable current spec Amperage above the current draw of the light bar, the fuse rating above the light bar current draw but BELOW the max current capacity of the cable. So if the light bar wattage is 216w, current is 18A @12v, you could fuse at 20A or 25A and use a cable capacity of say 29A. Example 2.5mm2 Automotive thinwall. (I’d probably choose 3mm2). With the Engine running with Alternator charging current and voltage say at Approx 14.5v , the above example load of the light bar as an example, would drop to 14.9A, Approx. The above is an example, I tend to like Durite Relays with Diode as it lessens flyback voltage back upstream. As with everything, we all have our individual likes and dislikes, and different preferences for products or ways of doing things. The fusing is to protect the cable, not particularly to protect the device. The fusing is to protect against risk of accidental short circuit, damage or overload of which could cause catastrophic fire without having appropriate fusing. >>Correct appropriate fusing is safety critical.<< $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 16th Feb 2024 9:00pm. Edited 3 times in total |
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16th Feb 2024 6:57pm |
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| Evil Elsie Member Since: 25 Feb 2023 Location: Cumbria Posts: 201
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That is, as always, excellent information - thank you all very much..!!
I will be sure to follow all of the advice and check out Durite relays. Thanks again..👍👍 2002 Land Rover 110 Td5 Utility 1990 Suzuki GSXR 1100L 1980 Yamaha RD 350LC 1976 Yamaha RD 400C |
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16th Feb 2024 7:49pm |
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