 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Clank, clank, clank, grind, stop... |
 
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| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 316   
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After an amazing Easter weekend staying at the incredible Llanerchindda Farm (I really can't rate this highly enough!) & exploring some spectacular Welsh countryside, our drive home didn't quite go to plan & we ground to a halt on the motorway.
Symptoms were clanking sounds when taking up drive after changing gear, followed by a rather alarming grinding noise and a complete loss of drive. We coasted onto the hard shoulder and spent 5 hours watching the traffic go by from the grass verge - surprisingly therapeutic even in the rain! The half packet of hob nobs were a life saver. At 99k miles I had been considering getting the output shaft changed as a precaution, as I believe it's still on the original. I'm presuming that's what most likely has now failed? |
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2nd Apr 2024 8:07pm |
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| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 316
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Thanks Blackwolf.
I should have mentioned, I tried engaging diff lock whilst on the hard shoulder in the hope it was a half shaft/flange issue, but alas it still wouldn't move. |
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2nd Apr 2024 8:25pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19657
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Do you know if it was lubed or not when it was looked at or an estimated condition? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
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2nd Apr 2024 8:28pm |
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| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 316
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Hi Custom90, I haven't had it looked at, so I'm not sure if it was lubed. I was considering getting it changed as a precaution, but events have now overtaken that decision.
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2nd Apr 2024 8:36pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1797
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Not the best of ends to a good holiday, I expect all those hills etc finally took their toll on the output shaft.
99,000 is not “Too Bad” for the output shaft, plenty do far less, but a fair few do far more. So I don’t expect your misalignment issue is major. You are now at that decision point. 1. Standard (properly greased) LR shaft - should last at least another 99k miles, probably much more. 2. Ashcroft oil lubricated shaft- should last a lifetime. 3. LOF one piece shaft - should last a lifetime but some are not keen on the lower torque level of the long bolt and has the potential to pass on alignment issues to more expensive components, but as your alignment issues don’t seem severe then I expect less likely to be an issue. 4. IRB developments two piece shaft that is like a one piece shaft as the two components are bolted together, plus the cup bolt can be tightened to the correct torque. Should last a lifetime but has same potential to pass on alignment issues to more expensive components as the LOF. But again, as your alignment issues don’t seem severe then I expect less likely to be an issue. Then, if not doing it yourself, do you get the clutch , spigot bearing and seals done at same time. That could raise the total cost to circa £1200  but then you know everything should be ok for the foreseeable future. |
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2nd Apr 2024 9:44pm |
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| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 316
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Thanks Ianh, that's an incredibly helpful post.
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2nd Apr 2024 9:53pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1797
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Just my synopsis of all the reading I have done on the fantastic posts by many other members on the Puma output shaft issue.
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2nd Apr 2024 10:07pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 335 |
I'm sorry if i have to say at this point that this shaft is a victim of poor gearbox-alignment, so lubricating it won't help. That makes me sad, because my intermediate shaft has never (295kkm) been conspicuous and that's why i don't want to have a replacement gearbox, but would rather have mine overhauled. If it ever comes to that.
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3rd Apr 2024 4:12pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19657
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Mine is around that mileage, never had a problem, but, thanks to Blackwolf’s kindly received advice on here I always kept it greased when the clutch has been done.
Last time I asked again what it was like, it was lubed again and was told it was like new really. This is genuine parts, on a 90. There seems to be two problems, misalignment and poor lubrication, on the odd occasion (moderately common) a combination of both which is the worst scenario. I would imagine if you have poor alignment then the Ashcroft resolution maybe best. (Or another parity equivalent). If it’s lack of lube, Genuine and then lubed permanently. I just stick to genuine and lubed, as I am told all is well. I’d imagine if it wasn’t lubed it would have had wear by now though which it now isn’t because it is lubed. The same applies with the flywheel, I got one in case it should be worn or damaged but wasn’t, so I just keep a spare, I was prepared to get the output shaft replaced too but again wasn’t needed but it’s useful to keep those parts if needed if you can. So far, so good on the Transit 4x4 clutch, I like it! Seems less slippy and HD, but not heavy really. Bearing in mind the mileage we are talking about here is already excellent, considering many options out there some cars are almost fit for scrap at 80k the entire vehicle never mind a transmission component. 
The main thing is you had a good time in Wales, these things happen. Once you’ve got it fixed you’ll enjoy it again.  Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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3rd Apr 2024 7:24pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 126 
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I see that some output shaft left factory without any grease, if that's the case here, 160,000kms is not that bad or? I guess we have to wait for what the garage says, but if it's rusty, I'd put a new one, grease, and check it later to see how it goes. Edit: I guess my post is kinda useless considering the post just above it haha Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) |
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3rd Apr 2024 7:47pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 808  
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All good advise, but personally I would not do the main bearing seal unless it is leaking. For some reason it seems to be very hard to get that installed right and you might en up with a drip where previously there was none. |
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3rd Apr 2024 7:53pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19657
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^^^^ This is good advice, these things are best left alone unless leaking. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
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3rd Apr 2024 7:57pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 126
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Which seal wouldn't you do exactly? Gonna do my clutch and output shaft next month. (most likely gonna make a separate thread for it because I will have a really short window, so can't really miss parts haha) Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
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3rd Apr 2024 7:59pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 808
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The big seal at the flywheel side of the crankshaft, right behind the flywheel. Tricky one in my experience, both quality and fitting.
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3rd Apr 2024 8:04pm |
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